In the film Steel Magnolias, Olympia Dukakis’s character observes: “Honey, the only difference between us and the animals is our ability to accessorise.” How true. And it’s especially true for menswear this season, as elements of traditional styling are perking up contemporary fashion: the cravat, braces, the Panama hat (very big this summer), even the pinky ring.
And last — but by no means least — there’s the pocket square, which has been peeking out from the top pockets of the most modish, from David Beckham to Daniel Craig, Daniel Radcliffe, Freddie Fox and Puff Daddy.
To be clear: this is no simple, bog-standard hanky. Up until now, upmarket designers and emporia have been selling a range of top-pocket specific squares, but they have also started to trickle down to the high street.
There is the simple plain white sqaure (folded so that a single line of material is revealed along the top of the pocket) which goes with the ensemble beloved of the Mad Men — slim suit, white shirt and narrow tie — but that’s a bit dull.
The real McCoy is a more foppish and louche affair that billows jauntily out of the pocket, adding an eye-catching splash of colour — and bringing an extra accent to an outfit that should not be too matchy. On no account should you buy a co-ordinating tie and hanky set.
There are various ways to fold the material — there’s even one method called the Astaire, akin to origami and probably impossible with a slippery silk square. The more usual variations are the cheeky peak, just poking out of the pocket, or the fop flop, where you simply plunge the the thing in there and let the folds flourish outwards.
Prices, of course, vary, though it has to be said that the designer squares really do have that something extra in terms of design and colour.
One from Duchamp or Richard James, for example, could set you back £45 or so. Ted Baker, meanwhile, has some attractive versions for £19-£25, but you could get a simple plain colour for about £10 in H&M.
But whatever you choose, this season it really is hip to be square.
