Rich food in a rich setting

George Sandeman first took over the cellars at 20 St Swithin's Lane in 1798.

And very fine cellars they are too, complete with an ornate black iron 'Capital Patent Crane' for lowering barrels into the depths.

Now it is home to The Don restaurant and bistro, which takes its name from the trademark portrait of Sandeman port's 'Don', which has been re-hung, with due ceremony, at the gateway to this hidden courtyard.

The lofty room on the ground floor makes a striking restaurant, while the vaulted brick cellars make a grand backdrop for the Bistro.

The feel of the smart ground floor restaurant is sophisticated - this place is aiming directly for the fine-dining market, and the strategy seems to be working.

The food is accomplished: starters range from a terrine of foie gras, with a prune and Cognac dressing and toasted brioche; to scallops baked 'en croéte' with lime and vanilla.

Mains may include Shetland salmon in leaf spinach, preserved lemon and sauce Jacqueline; rack of young New Zealand venison on pancetta with a Reblochon and potato gateau; and a well-judged dish of calf's liver with braised chicory and champ potatoes.

The kitchen knows its stuff: strong flavours and good combinations.

Puds are comforting - dark chocolate tart with eau de vie Mandarine sorbet; hazelnut pistachio parfait.

And hurrah, there are savouries, including a delicious French rarebit of grilled Reblochon on toasted potato and garlic bread.

Party throwers note: there is a grand private room in the cellar adjoining the Bistro.

The Don
St. Swithin's Lane, London, EC4N 8AD