Onwards and upwards in NW6
This review was first published in May 2001
The temptation to dumb down the cooking in a gastro-pub must be ever present with so much of the income derived from drinkers alone. A year and a half on, the owners of THE SALUSBURY PUB AND DINING ROOM have not taken their eyes off the ball, and the same chef, Enrico Sartor, is in charge of the Italian menu.
The Salusbury splits conveniently into two halves for drinkers and diners, the latter seemingly content to share the larger tables. On a sunny evening last week, lots of the punters had spilled on to the pavement leaving the interior agreeably placid. Pretty girls in strappy tops who come out like flowers in warm weather were all over the place.
Our dinner started with an asparagus risotto, where the rice had that little bit of resistance at the core that stops it being soporific, and vibrant pan-fried, crosshatched squid spiked with chilli served on, actually under, rocket. Cartoccio of sea bass fillets with roasted tomatoes, olives and basil was presented like a present to unwrap. A bonus discovery were the new potatoes and green beans mixed into the bed of garnish. Cubes of sweet potato caramelised on the exterior, soft within, were the accompaniment for some meticulously trimmed lamb chops cooked rare as requested. It was a delicious assembly.
Desserts include amaretto and mascarpone parfait and sgroppino, a soft lemon sorbet with grappa. The wine list is unusually carefully chosen with a thoughtful number of halves on offer.
The success of the pub has encouraged its owners to plan a food shop to meet the needs of local people. The Salusbury Food Store at No 56, opening in about three weeks' time, will offer mainly organic produce, some of it sourced through private supply lines from Italy and a range of simple prepared dishes. A whole poached salmon with home-made mayonnaise was one example given. A ceramic pizza oven awaits the chef from Naples who will prepare a daily changing variety of pizzas to be sold by weight - from a handful to an armful. Time has not stood still at The Salusbury.
The Salusbury Pub & Dining Room
Salusbury Road, London, NW6 6NN
