On the waterfront

When Thai On The River wanted to abandon Chelsea Wharf, they must have been thrilled to find the premises that used to house Lan Na Thai. Nestling beside the heliport at Battersea (which provided deafening sound effects to our meal), the new waterside location doesn't necessitate a name change. Or even much of a refit.

This was one of the first upmarket Thais, all elaborate presentational folderols and staff in traditional dress. But time - and the likes of Patara and Busaba - have overtaken it. While the menu still reads well, the delivery doesn't quite cut it.

There seemed to be a greasiness problem: both the prawns in betel leaves (with spices, limes and peanuts) and squid with garlic, chillies and spring onions (which should be feather-light) were weighted down with their cooking oils. Pad Thai slithered around on the plate. But flavours are on the money and their Panaeng beef was a lush version, deliciously sticky and singing with lime leaves and coconut.

Staff are lovely. I idiotically ordered a too-sweet Gew¸rztraminer (my own fault); they replaced it for a different wine sans murmur. Prices, which once seemed high, are now par for the course. A nice local, but no longer a destination.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £80. Groveside Court, 2 Lombard Road SW11. Tel: 020 7924 6090. Rail: Clapham Junction