A rather sad successor
What a shame. Due to a lack of punter appreciation, the late-lamented Osia - genuinely intriguing Aussie job - has shuffled off, leaving an altogether lowlier creature squatting in its place.
This sad space is neither fish nor fowl: neither diner (it's basically Osia stripped down and accessorised by ketchup and mustard bottles with a spot of light neon) nor restaurant proper.
Despite having just opened, it has the air of the long-abandoned. The plastic-sleeved, diner-style menu reads well, a crowd-pleasing bunch of America's greatest hits: Caesar salad, steaks, ribs, burgers and the odd something you'd get in the works canteen, while my pork short ribs tasted of socks steeped for days in maple syrup.
Cheesecake was curiously granular and apple pie came in an irregularly shaped individual portion, like a Mr Kipling reject. But what's this? A really good, fat, juicy burger: Donald Russell beef on a decent bun with Jack cheese and bacon (though I'm moved to doubt the veracity of their 'we make our own fries' statement). As our American friends might say, go figure.
A three-course meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £75. 10-11 Haymarket SW1. Tel: 020 7976 1313. Tube: Piccadilly Circus
Broadway Bar & Grill
10-11 Haymarket, SW1
